Omnivore - Serpas opens

Scott Serpas' menu of "true food" is simple and straightforward

We dined at Serpas last night. The restaurant, which just opened a few days ago, is in the Studioplex loft development in the Old Fourth Ward. It follows the still-kicking trend of locating restaurants in warehouse-style settings. There's lots of old brick and orange, including an enormous photo mural of flowers we decided was probably apple blossoms.

The "true food," as Scott Serpas calls his cooking, was mainly good. We sampled this dish of "crab toast," an interesting re-do of the lately ubiquitous crab cake. Wayne always says his favorite vegetable is toast points, so he especially liked it. Generally, the menu is simple, with no razzle-dazzle and weirdness. Then again, a short rib topped with a blend of cottage cheese and horseradish did border on weird.

I'll have more to say in my next Grazing column.

(Photo by Cliff Bostock)