Omnivore - Sweet Auburn BBQ opens

Brisket and collards from the folks who own the popular food truck with the same name


Tuesday, I checked out the new Sweet Auburn Barbecue at the Sweet Auburn Curb Market. The booth is operated by the folks who own the popular food truck with the same name.

It was swamped with customers when I visited and the staff was having difficulty keeping up. But I got away after 15 minutes with a takeout plate of brisket, collards, squash casserole and coleslaw. The standard slice of thick white bread accompanied the plate.

The brisket was chopped. I like bigger hunks of the stuff, but Sweet Auburn's style exposes more surface to my favorite sauce — the mustard-based one with habanero chilies. Collards were flawlessly uncomplicated. The squash casserole was so-so. The over-cooked squash itself was good in that church-supper sort of way. But the bread-crumb topping tasted way too much like Pepperidge Farm's. I'd rather the gritty stuff be eliminated altogether.

The neighboring booth, Bell Street Burritos, seemed to be doing a good business too. Matt Hinton's successful attempt to duplicate the menu and cooking of the old Tortillas on Ponce de Leon is still looking to open a second location that won't have to limit itself to daytime hours.