Omnivore - King & I changes hands

Tyson Wong Ophaso is part of the change


I lunched Friday at the King & I, probably one of the oldest Thai restaurants in the city. It has had a huge following of Midtown residents over the last 30 years.

The restaurant changed hands recently. Renowned chef Tyson Wong Ophaso is now associated with it, but exactly how is unclear at this writing. He also had a role in the recently closed Straits.

I was anxious to try the new incarnation, although friends told me that prices had increased substantially. I didn’t really find that to be true. My green curry (pictured) was $8.50.

What does seem to have changed a bit is the quality. Our curries were watery to the point that a substantial amount of rice wouldn’t absorb the liquid. On the other hand, I liked that the green curry was a bit more spicy-hot than the usual in Thai restaurants that cater to the vanilla of palate. The meat choices include pork, which I ordered. I’d stick with chicken.

Tom Phing, the former owner, is still operating Zen on Ten in the Westside.