Omnivore - Holy Taco: Come and get your cauliflower soup with cured egg yolk

East Atlanta Village spot delivers Mexican fusion

It's been a while since we visited Holy Taco in East Atlanta Village. The restaurant never disappoints, even when kooky-sounding dishes emerge from Chef Robert Phalen's kitchen.

Take for example this vichyssoise-like cauliflower soup. It's garnished with some smoked trout roe and cured egg yolk, whose flavor is usually compared to bottarga's. Little fronds of fennel float on the soup, which also contains a "chip" of fiery Fresno chile. Sounds strange. But it works.


And then there's this take on chicken Milanese. The fried cutlet is topped with a red "mojo," big rings of slightly charred sweet onions, and salad greens tossed with spicy peanuts. For me, the recipe is too heavy on the cumin. Or perhaps I should say it doesn't go far enough, since I've come to like the spice in Sichuan cooking.


Finally, my favorite sandwich around town: beef short rib, sliced turnips from the lovingly-named Love is Love Farm, manchego, arbol aoili, and, always, a few surprises.