Omnivore - Two apps at Watershed on Peachtree

• Cliff Bostock’s iPhone
• Pork belly wraps at Watershed

I had my 200th birthday meal last Saturday at the new Watershed on Peachtree, which I report about in this month’s “Grazing” column. Chefs Joe Truex and Julia Leroy appear to be having a lot of fun playing with local ingredients and Southern style.

Take, for example, this pork belly cooked almost bacon-crisp and eaten Vietnamese-style wrapped in lettuce leaves. Add a piquant slaw and Dijon mustard.

A riskier dish is a schnitzel made of scallops. It’s topped with a couple of salty anchovies and a fried quail egg. Capers and grebiche sauce round out the flavors. I have to admit the dish blindsided me with nostalgia. My mother used to set shrimp afloat in a grebiche-like sauce, probably my childhood favorite.

• Cliff Bostock’s iPhone
• Scallop schnitzel

The restaurant has been open about a month. The service needs radical improvement if ours was exemplary. Our server forgot requests, disappeared at times, and knew nothing about ingredients of dishes. We ordered two apps. He brought one we didn’t order. We told him that we’d be happy to eat it instead of the one we ordered. But then, a few minutes later, he also brought the one we did order. And then he charged us for all three.

We dined on the patio, by the way. If you eat there on your birthday, I suggest you not face Peachtree Street, where you will see the big sign on the office of the Neptune Society. Yes, those are the folks who offer “cremation services.”