Omnivore - Get in Ma Mouth: Tender Piggy Edition

• Courtesy Double Zero
• L’arrosto!: Pork shoulder at Double Zero

Here in the South, pork shoulder most often makes its way into the human belly after being smoked for hours, pulled apart into tender pieces, and piled between two buns. But there’s a pork shoulder in town, an I-tal-ian pork shoulder at that, that rivals any BBQ sandwich I’ve had in Georgia for pure pork pleasure. It’s the “l’arrosto” (which translates roughly as, um, “the roast”) at Double Zero in Sandy Springs.

I’m aware of at least two famous pork shoulder dishes across this grand country that are similar to Double Zero’s dish in their basic premise - a huge hunk of meat for several to share, accompanied by various complementary sides, with something to wrap it all up in at the table. You’ve probably heard of the justifiably lauded bo ssäm at Momofuku in New York, a slow-roasted Korean style pork shoulder that gets wrapped up in lettuce leaves at the table, along with kimchi, rice and oysters. Lesser known, though still raved about, is the “Lucky Pig” from Solbar in Napa Valley, which is also Asian-inspired, but comes with exotic accompaniments like pickled pineapple and “Mongolian peanuts,” all to be wrapped up inside black sesame crepes or, again, lettuce leaves. Well, Double Zero takes a similar approach, with a decidedly Italian spin to it. And the results are pretty fabulous.