Review: Farm Burger (1)

Healthy cows and greasy burgers in Decatur

Our culture's current food obsessions are not particularly sane. Comfort food is enjoying huge popularity. At the exact same time that we're gravitating toward the healthful virtues of organics and sustainability, we're also infatuated with grease, bacon and burgers. Simplifying our tastes means both getting back to the land and getting back to our little-kid food fantasies. So why not have both?

Farm Burger aims to do just that. Sharing a building with Watershed, the restaurant offers burgers made from grass-fed cows that were happy happy la-la until they became your lunch.

Like many things regarding Decatur, the best thing about Farm Burger is its feel. The airy space, speckled with bright blue chairs and long wooden tables, is pleasant in the extreme. Standing in line, waiting for that ethical burger, neighbors wave to one another. Along the communal tables, people jovially pass ketchup down to strangers. A cheap bottle of wine is poured into short glasses among restaurant workers after their shifts on the small patio out front. Music wafts. Life is good.

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(Photo by James Cook)