Tomohiro Naito’s vision for his restaurant is one of modernity, and the chef excels in technique, quality and creativity. The best meals at a Japanese restaurant will leave you feeling satiated but not stuffed, your palate awakened but not overloaded, certain dishes and tastes still ringing clear in your mind. Naito is a master at this style of dining, at pacing dishes perfectly, at putting tart dishes before heavy ones, at giving you time to breathe and savor before offering the next stunning but small burst of flavor. Tomo is a splurge, but worth it in every way. It’s still possible to eat at Tomo and miss the particular rhythm and brilliance of this chef. But put yourself in his hands, and Naito offers an unparalleled experience in modern Japanese eating.