Food Feature: ‘Bama bound
Top-notch restaurants serve cuisines both new Southern and old
As a dining destination, Birmingham once ranked right down there with Jacksonville and Macon. Today, it can be hard to get a table. Like Savannah and Charleston, S.C., the city is experiencing something of a renaissance of regional cuisine.
The best meal I’ve had this year - anywhere - was served in Five Points South, Birmingham’s Buckhead equivalent, at Highlands Bar & Grill (2011 11th Ave. South, 205-939-1400). Now 20 years old, the Highlands (as it is fondly known) draws moneyed bluebloods, knowledgeable sonny bubbas and movers-and-shakers who sport real jewelry and New York clothes. Owner/chef Frank Stitt III, a ‘Bama boy and former philosophy student, studied cooking in France with Richard Olney and Simca Beck. He’s been nominated for a James Beard Award four times.
The 123-seat Highlands offers dinner only. To start, we asked if the soft-shell crabs were fresh. Grinning, the waiter replied, “Those babies were alive when I saw them 30 minutes ago.” Dusted with cornmeal, fried and served on watercress with a corn and ham salsa, the crabs were crunchy, sweet and delicious. I’ve never had better. Mixed plates of green and white asparagus with heirloom potatoes were almost as good.
One entree shone: a pair of tender, tiny veal chops and a mound of sautéed veal sweetbreads, both in a wine reduction, served with wilted spinach and an extraordinary fresh green-pea flan. Grilled pork tenderloin on creamy grits with sweet-sour tomato sauce is the remarkable New South signature.
Perfectly up-to-date desserts included a light, lovely lemon tart on cookie crust, a classic strawberry tart and a frozen cappuccino ball - coffee ice cream, fudge shell, toffee-truffle center and toffee candy in the whipped cream garnish. Prices are uptown. Figure on $40 for three courses.
Stitt and his wife Pardis Sooudi also operate upscale Bottega and the less formal Café Bottega a couple of blocks away (2240 Highland Ave. 205-939-1000). The accent is Mediterranean with a slight Southern drawl: Baba ghanoush and iced tea, the city’s best pizza. Lunch is served in the Café so visitors with just one day can sample Stitt’s cuisine more than once. In addition, the couple recently opened Chez Fonfon, a French-casual hangout next door to the Highlands (205-939-3221).
Tables are also hard to get at Birmingham’s other big-deal restaurant, Hot and Hot Fish Club, (2180 11th Court South, 205-933-5474). Missing out on a reservation, I called suburban friends who zipped us a few exits southwest to the Greek-American standout, Bright Star, 30419th St. North, Bessemer, 205-429-9444). In business since 1907, Bright Star features dark wood paneling, high ceilings, polished brass, oversized mirrors, booths with privacy curtains and traditionally prepared seafood.
The crab-and-lobster casserole, rich with cream, wine and cheese, may be tomorrow’s heart-stopper, but it sure tastes fine. Same for grilled halibut with herb crust, garlic beurre blanc and loaded baked potato. Start with the included Greek salad. Finish with homemade pie - peanut butter, lemon icebox, coconut cream or banana nut. Enjoy bar service, motherly but no-nonsense waitresses and valet parking. Figure on $25 for two courses.
Back in the city the next day, and wandering near Legion Field and the Alabama State Fairgrounds, we lunched at another elder platesman, Lena’s Ole Hickory Restaurant, (3101 Ensley Ave., 205-781-7837). Essentially a barbecue-and-two diner, Lena’s offers a cafeteria lunch line plus counter, booth and drive-through service for barbecue and short orders. Barbecue pork sandwiches are huge for the money ($2.55, $3.35). Side dishes - savory turnip greens, sheet-pan cornbread, baked beans tasting right out of the can - are as mixed a collection as the blue-collar clientele. ??