Chef’s Table - top cut

chef’s table

The gaucho (cowboy) culture of southern Brazil is a centuries-old blend of rich traditions from European immigrants and Brazilian natives. Elmir Bernardon is the real deal: He’s from Rio Grande do Sul in southern Brazil, where he learned the art of churrasco, the gaucho way of roasting meat over open fire pits. He wields his skewers of rump steaks and legs of lamb at Buckhead’s meat mecca, Fogo de Chão.

Creative loafing: How did you end up as a gaucho in Atlanta?

Bernardon: I was working in steakhouses in Brazil 15 or 20 years ago. I was invited to help open Fogo de Chão in Sao Paulo. There was a big demand from Americans for this concept. They are meat lovers. In 1997, I was one of 12 gauchos who helped open [a Fogo restaurant in] Dallas. In 2001, I came to open Atlanta. It was a great opportunity. People from all over the world want to come to the U.S. In Brazil, it’s the same thing.

What are a gaucho’s duties?

We are all considered chefs and train for two years to store, prepare and cook the meat and make the marinade. We are responsible from the minute we receive the meat to the moment it is presented on the table. We do a little bit of everything. From the freezer to the fire, a lot of things need to be done before the meats come to the dining room.

Do men and women prefer different cuts of meat?

Women, they like chicken and filet mignon best because it is tender. The guys will try anything and the amount is much bigger.

Ever had any meat mishaps?

We’ve dropped little pieces of meat if the customer doesn’t grab it or misses it. Stains on shirts, maybe. But nothing major. Everybody gets a lot of training.

Tell me about your uniform.

The fluffy gray pants are called bombachas in Portuguese. Then the belt, scarf, shirt and boots. It’s hard to iron those pants. The dry cleaner doesn’t know how to do it.

You look very dashing. Ever been propositioned?

After ladies have had a few drinks, it happens. We try to train people to be very professional.

Fogo de Chão, 3101 Piedmont Road. 404-266-9988. www.fogodechao.com.

chefstable@creativeloafing.com






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