Omnivore - Lunch at Toast

I lunched today at Toast (817 W. Peachtree St., 404-815-9243), my first visit in some time. This restaurant, behind the old Biltmore hotel, made quite a splash when it opened with the very talented Drew Van Leuvan as chef. He long ago moved on — to Spice, then to SAGA, both of which have closed.

Now running Toast are Cary and Nancy Smith, well known for the cafe, Delectables, they operated at the downtown Atlanta Public Library from the mid-’80s to the late ’90s.

Although service during lunch with two friends was poor, the food was mainly good. I liked my grilled salmon on onion focaccia with smoked gouda and remoulade. Jeff’s burger, on a toasted English muffin with caramelized onions (hold the usual blue cheese), pleased him. But, by the time the waiter fetched the ketchup he wanted, he’d eaten half the sandwich.

The loser was Gregg’s beef tenderloin on a baguette with brie. Both of the sandwich’s fillings were cold, giving the cheese an especially unpleasant texture.

Sides of gazpacho and cottage fries were OK.