Omnivore - Guess who’s 80 years old

The Colonnade on Cheshire Bridge Road is celebrating its 80th anniversary. The longtime favorite Southern spot has redesigned its menu in recent months and some of the classic dishes, like the lamb shank shown above, have been reworked.

The new shank is beautiful — coated with caramelized onions and served over mashed root veggies and mashed potatoes. But mine was quite gamy and fatty. “That’s what happens when they let the sheep out to play,” my dining companion said, but I’m doubting this is from a free-range animal, although the restaurant is using a free-range bird for its new chicken Marsala.

I’m sticking with the classics here — the fried chicken and fried oysters and shrimp. I’m hoping the gamy lamb was a fluke.

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