Omnivore - Zillions of delicious calories

Slugs slouching toward Bethlehem? Planet of the chalky lakes? Nope, it's my favorite pizza at Fritti, the Napoli, made with bufala mozzarella, salted anchovies, capers and wild oregano.

This particular pizza is one of eight made with a special flour and certified by the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association. The crust is somewhat billowy compared to the restaurant's other pizzas. That's not to say that the "traditional" one topped with Gorgonzola and pineapple and drizzled with balsamic vinegar we shared Friday night wasn't good, too.

The starter I find irresistible here is the mound of cremini and portobello mushrooms fried in rice-flour batter with truffle oil — hot, fragrant and luscious. We also ordered a plate of bresaola with celery and Parmigiano with lemon.

Fritti, like its sister next door, Sotto Sotto, is among my favorite comfort restaurants, where I can consume 2 zillion calories and know each and every one will be delicious.

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