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Omnivore - Lupe opens with a stingy taco policy

The new restaurant from Riccardo Ullio features straight forward classics

We checked out the new Lupe Taqueria (905 Juniper St., 678-904-4584) over the weekend. The new restaurant by Riccardo Ullio is located in the space formerly occupied by Cuerno, his attempt at a Spanish restaurant (something that never seems to succeed in Atlanta).

The new restaurant, named after the Virgin of Guadalupe, features a very straightforward menu of tacos and classics like the chile relleno above and the flan at right. The chile relleno departs from the usual around town by featuring a filling of queso cincho — an aged, firm cheese that does not melt into the creamy texture of chihuahua cheese.

Although it's completely usual to do so, I prefer my chiles served over the traditional red sauce, not under it, as the chef is doing here. That can easily turn the fried flour-and-egg coating soggy.

I have one major complaint about the restaurant. It calls itself a "taqueria," but you are only allowed to order  plates of three-of-a-kind tacos with the usual rice and refried beans — no mix-and-match. So, even if you're tempted to order a $9 plate of tacos as a starter, they all have to be of a single kind.

I'll have more to say in "Grazing" later this week.

(Photos by Cliff Bostock)