Omnivore - Pig ears at One Eared Stag

Plus pigs' feet and pork rinds



"I want something healthy," I told myself Tuesday night as I headed to One Eared Stag. I pictured myself eating, say, a bowl of peas or a beet salad.

Instead, I pigged out. Literally. I ate a pig's foot, its ear and its skin.

The foot (or "trotter") was served as a thick and fatty fritter. Chef Robert Phalen pulls the meat from the bony foot, shapes it into a patty, encrusts it lightly with panko and fries it. Then he plops a fried egg on the fritter and serves it with a side of a sparkly-fresh bean salad. Honestly, if you're squeamish, you'd never know you were eating pigs' feet.

Next up were the ears, which were cut into chewy strips and also fried in a light coating of panko, Another fried egg topped the heap. Lime and crushed chilies made the ears sting a bit.

The fried pork skins — chicharrones — added some needed crunch to the meal. But a bowl of yellow corn, thick with cream and ribbons of white lardo, completely put me over the top of my tolerance for super-fatty pig parts. Don't order as much as I did and you'll leave happy.