Omnivore - Get in Ma Mouth: Sapelo Island Clams Edition

• Bart Sasso
• Sapelo Island clams at Holeman & Finch

What a joy to sit down at a bar, get a lovely and complex cocktail, and then a single dish that just makes you sigh and say, “dear God, that’s good.” Such was the case the other night when I stopped by Holeman & Finch. They had posted on Facebook about their Sapelo Island clams, and I had an hour to kill before picking someone up nearby. I sat down at the one seat open at the crowded bar, and asked barkeep Jason which cocktail might go best with the clams. He deliberated for a minute, then suggested one called Breaking Bread that used gin, dry Oloroso Sherry, and amaro to a wonderfully rich and herbal effect. The clams arrived shortly after, and I realized that the cocktail pairing worked not only in taste, but also in name - a thick slice of crusty toasted bread was a key element of the dish. Serendipity?