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Omnivore - Gunshow: a complete novelty in our city

Trying out Kevin Gillespie's take on dim sum

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After a couple of weeks of trying to get a reservation for six at Gunshow, Kevin Gillespie's new restaurant in East Atlanta, Wayne and I showed up alone and unreserved Thursday night. We were admitted, seated at one of the community tables, and began to boggle our palates and eat up the room.

The concept is small plates served somewhat dim-sum style (replete with a check list) in a room that feels like an extension of the kitchen. Gillespie was circulating with a cart of "Carolina-style pork ribs with peaches 'n cream slaw," carving them table-side. Other chefs emerged from the kitchen, offering plates like "charred wild leeks with antebellum grits and funyuns;" "burnt peaches and buttermilk fennel, local feta, maretto;" and "North Carolina trout with corn mousseline and shrimp salad." Jesus.