A FAMILY TRADITION: Nakato reopens
The long-time favorite Atlanta Japanese restaurant has undergone a massive renovation, but stays true to its roots
Approaching the entrance on Cheshire Bridge Road, the exterior exhibits a dramatic re-interpreting of the traditional Japanese architecture. Once through the massive front doors, visitors are greeted with a light and airy reworking of the interior, accented by a new bar with and a spacious dining room adjacent to the sushi bar.
The newly designed Nakato is, one might say, Sachi personified. Born and raised in Atlanta to two Japan-born parents and extended family, she was brought up in a household dedicated to following a world of Japanese traditions. Sachi and the newly designed Nakato are both bridges steeped deeply in the culture and traditions of Japan, with roots in Georgia.
“When my grandmother came to the US in 1972, she immediately fell in love with Atlanta and wanted to put down roots here by purchasing land and the old Caruso’s Restaurant, which she proudly re-invented as Nakato, complete with many authentic Japan-made design elements,” Sachi Nakato Takahara reflects. “This massive renovation is both my love letter to the rich Japanese history and culture that my grandmother brought to this city, and my own personal passion for the community of Atlanta and its wonderful people who have supported Nakato for more than 50 years,” Sachi explains.
The blending of Japanese traditions and Atlanta roots was an essential theme of the renovation, mirroring Sachi’s own life. With the assistance of Nelson Design Group, the Atlanta-based agency known for their work with The Battery, Sachi carefully chose every element of the newly redecorated restaurant to create an all-around brighter, fresher look, that builds on the past while looking to the future.
Finding an understanding ally in her vision, Sachi also enlisted Atlantan Whitney Wolf in her redesign. The founder of the Atlanta-based hand-crafted custom furniture company, The Jack Ellis Company, Wolf was a logical choice, having grown up dining at Nakato with his parents. The spectacular new bar top that he created, one of the centerpieces of Nakato’s new look, is made from a White Oak tree that fell during a storm on his family’s property in nearby Druid Hills.
“When Sachi approached me about this project, I knew [the wood is what he wanted to use] for the bar top,” Wolf is quoted assaying. “White oak is native to Japan, and seeing that the wood had a beautiful, but subtle, live edge, I knew it would be perfect for the front facing part of the bar,” he recalls. “The slabs had a lot of character and needed some butterflies, and we added quite a few butterflies to stabilize it and prevent it from further cracking,” he explains, acknowledging his use of “arikata,” the Japanese art of repairing an item while not hiding the defects, but almost accentuating them, in his using butterfly joints to join the pieces of wood together and strengthen them. “It’s part of the natural order of things, so it’s meant to be,” Wolf explains, “These butterflies allow the cracks to stay and exist in harmony.”
Hanging over his woodworking masterpiece is an equally stunning bar canopy, which was created in Japan from Paulownia Wood, embedded with the traditional Asanoha design, a favorite of Sachi’s, and an intrinsic element of Japanese design work.
Traditional Japanese design can also be enjoyed in the new Teppanyaki, or Hibachi Room, with its spectacular blue and metallic gold “Seigaiha” wave pattern which symbolizes good luck and is associated with the eternal movement and dynamism of the sea, which was commissioned and created in Japan. The mirroring wall includes a reproduction of Katsushika Hokusai’s classic woodblock print, “The Great Wave Off Kanagawa,” with Mount Fuji in the background.
Not only is the decor new, but the hibachi experience has been elevated with the addition of both state-of-the-art grills and ventilation hoods, replacing the equipment installed in 1991. Huge strides have been made in the technology of both. Regulars of Nakato’s Hibachi Room will discern a noticeable difference.
In supporting the city that has been the backbone of Nakato’s success, the reopening also features notable changes in the cocktail and wine lists. Neighboring distillery, ASW, provides the restaurant’s house vodka, gin, and bourbon. Noted wine expert Hans-Peter Dietrich, a long-time regular at Nakato, happily curated the new wine list, featuring a select 16 wines, ranging from a Willems Willems riesling to a Paul Durdilly et Fils, Gamay, “Les Grandes Classes” beaujolais, complimenting Nakato’s extensive sake list. Dietrich notes that the vintages create “a beautiful symbiosis of wines from around the world coming together to pair with Nakato’s exceptional cuisine.”
Of special note is the restaurant’s exciting and daring new cocktail list, boldly injecting traditional Japanese flavors into well-known classics. Among them, the Yuzu Paloma combines reposado tequila with tangy yuzu juice, agave syrup, and Fever Tree pink grapefruit soda. The Shiso Fresh is made with Haku Vodka, shiso-infused honey yuzu, and fresh lime juice, while the Dirty Dashi includes Nikka gin, expressed lemon oil, and kelp-infused vermouth.
The new libations will prove to pair well Nakato’s ongoing menu, as well as the seasonal favorites prepared by the chefs. With it currently being the height of the matsutake season in Japan, Nakato’s reopening is the perfect time to experience dishes highlighting this mushroom known for its cinnamon, pine and earthy notes.
Only the tatami rooms have yet to reopen to the public, as the original tatami mats are still in Japan being repaired to their original state. Expect these rooms to reopen closer to the holidays.
Nakato Japanese Restaurant is open for dinner seven nights a week, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 4pm until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For more information, visit www.nakatorestaurant.com.