Fried chicken hearts with egg in a basket

If you’ve succumbed to the siren call of chicken livers, the next stop on your offal journey is chicken hearts. Here, they come crispily pan-fried. Springier and less alkaline tasting than their livery counterparts, the hearts pack pure concentrated dark-meat flavor. The accompanying “egg in a basket” — that awesome breakfast treat of an egg fried into a hole cut in the center of a piece of bread — adds a glimmer of childhood delight to this already delightfully grown-up dish. $10.