Bar Review - Onyx: Eastside swank on the West side
Genre: Hip Westside watering hole
Where to: Part of the Westside's main attraction — the large, previously industrial space that houses Bacchanalia, Taqueria del Sol, as well as Figo Pasta.
The scene: Don't look like a novice and walk into Commune to find the Onyx bar: It's located one level above. A nearby set of stairs will take you there.
Dark brown countertops and deep black fixtures, offset by a glowing white onyx bar (naturally), conspire to create a soft glow that makes even the most ordinary appear ultra-chic.
The clientele: Women in pricey winter whites and men in casual suits trying hard to impress them intermingle with a regular set of Westsiders and Atlantans who span ethnicities and cultures.
Drinks: Two words: lychee martini. Unfortunately, on a recent trip, they were out of the Japanese plum puree that forms the drink's backbone. Commune's creative signature cocktails also include a (Absolut) Mandarin blossom cosmopolitan; a scrumptious cantaloupe martini made by mixing OJ, vodka and watermelon liqueur; a kiwi mojito and a berry lemonatta made from Tanqueray gin, raspberry liqueur, lime juice, soda and blueberries. A full selection of beers and wines are available for the less daring.
Munchies: With a shortened form of Commune's menu available topside, this ain't your average bar fare. Corn and clam chowder, spicy lime calamari, pancetta wrapped shrimp with avocado, and Coca-Cola-glazed ribs provide a tantalizing counterpoint to super-sweet cocktails. Thankfully, a burger and fries are available for those who can't let go of the dive experience.
Wallet impact: Pick your poison carefully if you want your bank account out of the red when you leave. Signature drinks range from $8-$10, wines from $6-$12 and food from $6-$18. Beer is a cost-conscious alternative: starting at $3 for a Bud Light with a few German drafts reaching as high as $7.
Service with a smile: With the usual set of electronic beats playing in the background, the swanky surroundings are vaguely reminiscent of the Eastside Lounge and other members of Atlanta's ultra-lounge set. An expanse of large windows provides a view that Commune's comrades can't beat. The Midtown skyline — a mere 10 minutes away, yet seeming impossibly distant — twinkles coyly.
A friendly group of bartenders keep the NYC-wannabe factor, all too common in lounges, to a fun-loving minimum, enjoying shots with their patrons as they expertly mix cocktails. Their mood is infectious, creating a friendly alternative to its sometimes intimidating brethren.
Onyx Bar at Commune. Mon.-Fri. 5 p.m.-midnight; Sat.-Sun. 5 p.m.-midnight. 1198 Howell Mill Road. 404-609-5000. www.communeatlanta.com.