Beer - Winter Warmer

While it can be exasperating seeing Christmas decorations in the stores before Halloween, one holiday item I don't mind seeing on the shelves is the selection of Christmas ales, winter warmers, and other celebratory, end-of-the-year seasonals proffered by brewers the world over. I have never been much of a Grinch; I love the holiday season. It probably helps that my parents were neither overly obsessive nor obscenely neglectful regarding the proper way to celebrate. Good food, special treats, lively conversation, and adult beverages were almost always a part of these gatherings. I used to love the mulled wine my mom made from a recipe she got from some Danish friends.

I guess that's why I enjoy the spiced ales and other special treats that roll out this time of year. Although they can vary widely in style, these beers usually feature high levels of alcohol for its warming qualities, spices or spicy hops, and a rich, full body. So far, I have had a chance to sample old standbys from Sierra Nevada (Celebration), Anchor (Our Special Ale), and Sweetwater (Festive Ale), as well as a new one for me, Avery's Old Jubilation.

Maybe it’s my penchant for spice in my Christmas brews, but I found the Sierra Nevada Celebration, which is billed as an IPA rather than any sort of seasonal style, to be well-crafted and tasty, but lacking the characteristics of a holiday offering. With so many delicious IPAs available year-round, this just doesn't seem like a pick for something special. The Celebration is exceptionally dry and woody, with a raw graininess and a toasty malt backbone. It would make an excellent accompaniment to a rich, hearty dinner and has a moderate 6.8% ABV, so you don’t embarrass yourself in front of Aunt Flo.

Anchor Christmas Ale from Anchor Brewing Company is now in its 33rd year, brewed each season with a slightly different recipe. That’s a remarkable run. These “vintage ales” are often cellared to mellow the spices and deepen the malt character. The ingredients nearly always include spruce tips that give the brew a decidedly Christmas-y aroma. This year’s vintage is no different in that respect. Nearly black with garnet highlights, the aroma is of minty pine, burnt sugar, and dark berry. Molasses, raisins, allspice, and clove lead the way on the tongue, followed by caramel and toffee as the beer warms. Smooth texture, low carbonation, a modest 5.5% ABV, and a drying hop finish all make this a very quaffable beer, but you will want to savor all the subtle nuances.

Sweetwater Festive Ale’s beautiful 1-liter swing top bottles sealed in wax shout special occasion, and when you show up at the Christmas party with a bottle of it, you are sure to be kissed under the mistletoe. See this week’s beer pick for a full description.

I looked forward to trying Avery’s Old Jubilation, since I have found all of their offerings to be most enjoyable. The Old Jubilation did not disappoint. Although it does not have added spices, I detected notes of ginger and nutmeg, as well as cherries and raisins in the aroma of this dark, mahogany-red ale. Cookie-like molasses and toffee dominate the malt profile, along with dried dark fruits like dates and prunes. A pleasant citrus and piney hop bitterness builds up gradually to a clean finish. Full-bodied and creamy with just the right carbonation to prevent the sweetness from going dull. The 8% ABV and complex flavors make it a good candidate for cellaring, as well. I look forward to trying this one again next year.

After Thanksgiving, I’ll have a review of some of the intriguing Christmas ales from abroad like the Bad Elf and Rudolph’s Revenge for the UK, the Delirium Noel and St. Bernardus Noel from Belgium, and the Samichlaus from Austria.