Omnivore - Don’t panic

I just about panicked today when, driving down Cheshire Bridge, I noticed that El Molino, a Mexican market, has changed its name to La Sierra. My fear was that the cafe in the back, run by Carlos (above), might have been closed or hired a new cook. I happily found Carlos still cooking.

This is my favorite Mexican spot in the city, mainly because Carlos usually prepares two home-style specials every day. These are dishes you won’t find anywhere else in the city, usually. Today, I had a platillo of carnitas cooked in a red sauce with squash. As usual, the portion was huge, with beans and rice on the side and six corn tortillas for wrapping the juicy pork. The cost? $6.

You can also order sandwiches — I love the al pastor — and other platillos from the regular menu. Warning: The place ain’t pretty and very little English is spoken, but between your pointing and Carlos’ monosyllabic command of English, you’ll make yourself understood.

Carlos himself is back from a three-month vacation in Acapulco. I asked him if he prefers life in Mexico or the U.S. “When I’m there, I miss Atlanta. When I’m here, I miss Acapulco,” he said.

The other El Molinos have not changed their names, by the way. La Sierra is located at 2000-A Cheshire Bridge Road, in the shopping center at Cheshire’s intersection with Faulkner Road.