Grazing: Skewerz, take two

Plus Fox Bros. burger, and chef shuffle at the Glenwood

I’ve long maintained that a review, no matter how many times a critic visits a restaurant, is a snapshot in time. Things can change overnight. There are exceptions, of course. Fine-dining restaurants often maintain quality despite changes in ownership and kitchen staff.

An example of the latter is the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead, where Guenter Seeger began his career in Atlanta, then moved on to open Seeger’s. Woodfire Grill, opened by owner/chef Michael Tuohy, has maintained the same quality since Tuohy’s departure for California. Ditto, or largely so, for Joël after the departure of Joël Antunes for New York.

But smaller restaurants can easily be derailed by the same kinds of changes that big-monied venues take in stride. Then, too, there’s the problem of getting a thorough experience of a restaurant’s menu. This is especially difficult for me, since I’m usually writing first impressions or investigating a particular classification of food.

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(Photo by James Camp)