Omnivore - I will not order the $11 burrito, I swear

A visit to Burro-Pollo

Courtesy Pura Vida
Photo credit: www.puravidatapas.com
Hector Santiago


  • Hector Santiago

I’ve been remiss. Pura Vida and its adjoining sandwich shop, Super Pan, are among my favorite eateries in the city. Hector Santiago, owner-chef of both, is a brilliant manipulator of Hispanic and Spanish tastes and textures.

But I hadn’t made it to another of his ventures until Sunday. Last summer, as if he didn’t have enough to do — did I mention catering too? — he opened Burro-Pollo, a burrito stand in the parking lot across the street from Pura Vida.

It’s open only 12 noon-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday and sells only two burritos — one made with chicken and the other made with tofu. The chicken version is so good you’ll be glad you can only get one on the weekend.

First, there is the tortilla, grilled until slightly blackened. Santiago, spreads deliciously spicy shredded chicken over the tortilla, adds crema and an airy salad of shaved radishes and greenery. You’ll also feel the sour burn of tomatillo sauce, if you request it.

You can select the “normal” $7 size or a monster for $11. The latter literally contains “about half a chicken,” according to Santiago’s wife Leslie, who was working the stand with him Sunday.

But wait, there’s more. My understanding is that the stand often offers pozole, but Sunday it was a flat-out amazing chili full of red beans and chunks of (what I assume was) pork belly. A Peruvian-style aqua fresca made with everything from tamarind to blue corn was also available, along with the most amazing hot chocolate you’ll taste in our city. I’m talking liquefied pudding made with good chocolate.

There is, by the way, a picnic table on the premises, but the cold weather motivated us to take our order home. The burritos, wrapped in newspapers, held up quite well.