Omnivore - Nino’s and Alfredo’s: Ala recherche du temps perdu

Classic Italian-American food on Cheshire Bridge

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My next Grazing column will be about two longtime Atlanta standards for Italian-American food — Nino’s and Alfredo’s, both on Cheshire Bridge.

Both continue to feel way retro, but especially Alfredo’s. I don’t think it’s changed in any way at all since my last visit in 2001. You get the same paneled and mirrored walls, the aquarium behind the bar, the ingratiating staff.

Nino’s, where I haven’t been since 2002, is a bit more contemporary, and our server Brittany was among the best I’ve encountered in a long time. Funny and well familiar with the menu, she was a good match for the five people at our table, all of whom consider themselves devastatingly amusing.

Look for Grazing next week.