Omnivore - Campagnolo brings Italian to Piedmont and 10th

• Cliff Bostock's iPhone
• Chicken-liver crostini

If any location in Midtown is cursed, it's the building at 980 Piedmont Ave. It is obviously possessed by a demonic serial killer whose hobby is seducing and murdering restaurants. Behind Napkin Burger at Piedmont's intersection with 10th Street, the building is set back a bit from the street, but there's no explaining why so many have died so quickly here.

The latest to take the risk here is Campagnolo, an Italian project of Maureen Kalmanson, who owns the Peasant downtown. ("Campagnolo means "peasant.") Kalmanson has done a masterful job remodeling the restaurant in minimalist style with low-key colors.

The menu includes antipasti, salads, pasta dishes (half or full-size portions) and entrees like lamb Marsala, trout with braised fennel, and a lemony roasted game hen. Three friends and I focused mainly on the pastas and starters.

• Cliff Bostock's iPhone
• Panna cotta with blood-orange coulis

Two standouts both included chicken livers. The first was crostini spread with liver mousse and piled with a salad dominated by shaved fennel. The other was fettuccine with house-cured Longino bacon, egg, zucchini and Parmesan cheese. You can add Marsala-braised livers for $4.

Generally, the food by Chef Daniel Chance was straightforward and flavorful. It's not inexpensive and one serious warning: if possible, sit outside. The main area inside, across from the bar, is extremely noisy. There are tables down a short flight of stairs, near the kitchen, too. They are much quieter, but you will feel a little like kids being fed in the kitchen while the grownups eat in the dining room.

I'm guessing Kalmanson is going to effectively exorcise the building's demon with good food and fun ambiance. I'll be writing a "First Look" next week.