Omnivore - Dinner at Fox Bros....finally

Bring on the brisket burger

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Restaurants with huge crowds and waits aren't that common during these allegedly post-recession days. But we've tried three times to dine at Fox Bros. BBQ and couldn't even find a parking space until Monday night.

I've had a love affair with the brisket "burger" here for some time. It's a mound of chopped meat on a bun with crispy bacon, tomato, pimento cheese and jalapeno mayo. Like anything you love, it's never perfect, sometimes because it tries too hard.

Last night I asked that they fill the bun with "burnt end" brisket — twice smoked, charred meat — instead of the usual. The thing was so huge and messy that I had to eat it with a fork and knife. I got so full, I couldn't eat the last third. I also tried some Brunswick stew, a version that's a bit sweet for my taste.

Wayne ordered a plate of the burnt end with fried okra. But he finished even less than I did.

That's the problem with Fox's barbecue for me. It is smoky-sweet-piquant delicious but super-fatty too. I can't eat it more than two or three times a year. Sometimes, too much love can make you queasy.