The chuletas at Cooks and Soldiers

The hulking chuletón, aka bone-in rib-eye for two, at Cooks and Soldiers does the traditional Spanish steak dish proud. Weighing at 1 kilogram — that’s 2.2 pounds for us ‘muricans — it’s slowly cooked on the restaurant’s impressive wood-fire grill. When the massive cut of beef comes fresh out of the fire, it’s sliced and served with the bone for gnawing if you’re into that sort of thing. It’s served alongside a pert salad with shaved Belgian endive and red onion tossed in a crisp Cava vinaigrette. A small silver pitcher of sweet and complex tempranillo bordelaise is so good you’ll want to pour it all over your body and have a loved one lick it off. Just sayin’. $74.