Celery usually has a supporting role, whether in a basket of hot wings or chopped up as mirepoix, but in this One Eared Stag staple, celery is the star. Chef Robert Phalen weaves a quintet of disparate ingredients, each one distinct in terms of both taste and texture, into a seamless work of art. There’s chopped endive and North Georgia Apple slices, celery leaves and slivers of salty Parmesan. This symphony of crisp and crunch is tossed in a punchy, umami-laden peanut vinaigrette with enough acid to counteract any celery bitterness. Finished with wisps of Parmesan cheese, this is one plate of celery you won’t soon forget. $10.