Sorrento lemon roast chicken at Gio’s Chicken Amalfitano

Has eating something ever not been enough? Like, you’d only be truly satisfied if you also could crawl into the bowl and be physically surrounded on all sides by the food? Such is the experience of eating the Sorrento lemon roast chicken at Gio’s Chicken Amalfitano, Antico mastermind Giovanni Di Palma’s Westside chicken joint. Rubbed with salt and seasoned simply with olive oil, chopped garlic, and wild oregano, the chicken is served in fist-size chunks in a big bowl and garnished with flatbread, potato wedges, and lemon slices. There is also a sauce in this bowl, an insanely aromatic broth emanating with the bright perfume of Sorrento lemons. Dip the rich chicken in it; let the potatoes soak it up - they’re thick enough to handle it - and leave none behind. $15-$38.