Mortadella mousse at Seven Lamps

Is it an appetizer? Is it charcuterie? Is it dessert? Who cares? Chef Drew Van Leuvan’s silky mortadella mousse comes sandwiched between two airy pistachio macaroons. It’s either the fanciest bologna sandwich ever or the meatiest dessert in town. One: $7; three: $18; five: $25.