Agnolotti at No. 246

The filling inside these rectangular baby raviolis varies with the season (and, presumably, the whims of the kitchen). Last time, it was goat cheese tinged bright pink with roasted beets, all topped with carrots, paper-thin slices of radish, and fresh tarragon. Another time it was roasted pumpkin, mascarpone, brown butter, and sage. While the ingredients may change, the little pastas are always the most tender, airy pillows of flavor. $19.