Our Study in Vegetables at the Cockentrice

The Cockentrice is a meat mecca, but chef Kevin Ouzts’ Our Study in Vegetables just so happens to be a veggie plate game-changer. Not only is the cornucopia of vegetables and cooking methods including roasting, pureeing, and frying, all on one plate, impressive, Ouzts adds portions of composed vegetable dishes that impress with creativity and refinement. One night, the study included a scoop of creamy, risotto-style sunflower seeds, a ramekin of silky cauliflower puree, CD-sized tempura-fried watermelon radish disks, and roasted potatoes and Brussels sprouts. The plate evolves over the course of the evening based on the whims of the kitchen, but somehow the dish manages to be provocative, satisfying, and delectable every time. $23.