Chow kway teow at Mamak

In food, too much smoke and char can be overpowering. Too little can be underwhelming. Mamak integrates an impeccable balance of both flavors with its flawless rendition of chow kway teow. A jumble of wide, flat rice noodles, tender squid and shrimp, and egg are stir-fried with soy sauce and chile in an intensely hot wok kissing each element with lightly charred and smoky essence. Crispy bean sprouts are tossed in at the last minute to add some fresh textural contrast to this soul-satisfying dish. $8.95.