Nana’s pizza at Varasano’s

Once you’ve had Jeff Varasano’s benchmark-setting margherita di bufala pizza, it’s time for a little menu exploration. Don’t miss the house specialty Nana’s pizza. If a margherita pie and a New York pie had a baby, the Nana’s would be the result. The sauce is cooked down until it’s pastelike, and there’s more cheese than the average margherita. These qualities, plus a perfectly airy and crackly thin Neapolitan crust, are enough to knock your socks off. But it’s the subtle addition of chewy pepperoni that elevates this pie to a level of complexity a plain margherita rarely achieves. $13.95.