Ethnic City - Neighborly nosh

There was no going back to store-bought pita after my first visit to Jerusalem Bakery (585 Franklin Road, Marietta, 770-419-1666). The smell of freshly baked bread filled the shop with an intoxicating aroma; the pita was puffed and fluffy with just the right amount of chew, a far cry from the stiff and collapsed stuff found on supermarket shelves. When Jerusalem Bakery opened an Alpharetta outpost with a full-on restaurant (4150 Old Milton Parkway, Alpharetta, 770-777-0193), I became an immediate regular thanks in part to the addictive and crunchy falafel. More excitement followed when I learned the owners had added on a restaurant to the original Marietta retail location. A narrow dining room and an open kitchen now accompany the bakery with its endless shelves of just-out-of-the-oven Middle Eastern treats. And the goodies, such as soft pizza-esque pies (meat, feta, or za’atar) can be bought and devoured on the premises.

When it comes to sandwiches, Marietta’s kitchen has a little less finesse than Alpharetta’s. Falafel the size of jawbreakers have feathery bits of crispy crunch outside, but the gray interior lacks any discernable seasoning; more parsley would add pop. Two ever-present spits of shawarma (beef and chicken) rotate all day, ready for sandwiches or platters. The chicken shawarma tastes on the tough side. Most of its meat is dark and could benefit from being shaved more finely so the chewiness of the beautifully spiced meat can shine. Rolled shawarma wraps are built with the house-made pillowy flatbread and tend to be a safer bet than the platters. In the wraps, the meat gets a boost from a long list of the traditional toppings, including spicy chili paste, pickled beets and tahini.

The restaurant’s best dish is the Jerusalem sampler: a massive platter of kafta kabob, shish tawook, falafel, and buttery, yellow rice. The kafta kabob, ground beef formed into a long cylinder and grilled, is moist and seasoned well with minced onions, herbs and hints of savory za’atar. Swipe it through the accompanying chili sauce and tahini and tuck it into a torn chunk of soft pita for an explosive mix of bright flavors and textures. The juicy, shish tawook (grilled chicken) is yellow with saffron and comes alive thanks to nice bits of char. A vinegary mince of spicy peppers adorns the creamy hummus. Vegetarians and nonvegetarians alike will love the vegetarian sampler for its simple abundance: a platter of smooth baba ghanoush drizzled with bright-green olive oil and chopped green chilies; hummus; falafel; and a mixed salad served with that fresh pita.

The back of the menu surprises with a long list of pizzas and calzones. The pizza tastes like a slightly souped-up version of your average delivery chain’s, but it’s a good option if someone in your group isn’t into Middle Eastern food.

If you’ve ever visited this kind of restaurant in Israel, you’ll be happy to know Jerusalem Bakery is authentic down to its lack of air conditioning and flickering overhead neon lighting. The atmosphere doesn’t seem to phase the steady stream of Bluetooth-wearing regulars, though, who greet each other with familiarity then grab a quick bite while picking up baked goods for the family next door.