Spicy tuna crispy rice at Umi Sushi

Crispy rice is hardly revolutionary, but Umi’s rendition is extraordinary. First, a mound of rice is lightly fried and shaped into a crisp, golden-brown block. Then it’s topped with a dollop of spicy tuna tartare and kicked up even further by slices of fresh jalapeño. The fresh fish, the crunch, and the spice all swirl into one of those heavenly bites that hit every pleasure receptor in your brain. As soon as it’s gone, good luck fighting the immediate urge to order up an encore. $14.