Tartare at Cooks and Soldiers

You don’t have to be a vegetarian to appreciate the brilliance of Cooks and Soldiers’ veggie “tartare” — a tomato-based riff on steak tartare made possible by a healthy dose of molecular gastronomy. Chunky cured tomato replaces the raw beef, and a stunning carrot-juice orb poses as the egg yolk typically found on the classic dish. A house-made vegetarian Worcestershire (no anchovies) plus the traditional capers, onion, and Dijon mustard, balance out the tartare’s bright tomato sweetness. You’ll never miss the beef. $7.